Outer Race

This is the outer race that is pressed into the transmission housing. It is badly pitted and will need to be replace.

Main Shaft

This is the main shaft showing some scoring in the area where the maingear bushing rides. Might as well replace this too since I'm replacing just about everything else.

Counter Shaft

This is the counter shaft showing some pitting and corrosion in the roller bearing area. Needs to be replace.

Shift Fork Shaft

I had considered simply connecting a hose to the breather outlet and then routing it back out thru the inner primary cover, but I was concerned that the hose might kink and restrict the breather. When my first breather modification proved to be flawed I realized that I was going to have to come up with a way to clamp something to the breather outlet if I really wanted it to be dripless. But I was still concerned about the hose kinking so I came up with this solution. I found a screen door spring that would just fit inside the vinyl tube. Now the tube can be formed into a tight radius and the spring inside will prevent it from collapsing. It's clamped to the breather outlet and now no more drips (at least not at the breather outlet area inside the primary cover - I realize that it will still drip at the end of the hose.)

I have heard of some guys who route this hose back to the oil tank by connecting it to a tee in the vent line that goes from the engine to the oil tank. The jury is still out on this option - my concern would be that pressure would build inside the oil tank and blow the filler plug off.

Belt Drive Final Assy

Install the clutch hub on the transmission shaft. Install the front pulley on the engine. Then, with the belt wrapped around the clutch pulley, slide the clutch basket onto the clutch hub and, at the same time, slide the belt onto the front pulley. In my case I had to reinsert the long rollers into the space between the clutch hub and clutch basket. Then install the "tamer", clutch disks, and pressure plate.

Engine Breather Modification (1st Version)

The primary chain oiler is probably the biggest producer of oil spots. There is an adjuster on the oil pump that diverts oil to the engine breather outlet. The oil then dribbles onto the primary drive chain and from there it dribbles onto the ground. Obviously, when you replace the chain with a belt you do not want oil dribbling all over the belt. So, you can turn off the chain oiler adjustment at the oil pump so that it does not send any more oil to the breather outlet. However, the engine breather is still expelling oil vapor into the area where the drive belt is and that's not a good thing.

You can't simply plug the engine breather outlet to eliminate these oil vapors because if the engine can't breathe thru the breather it will find another way to breathe, usually by blowing oil out of other places where it is supposed to be sealed.

So, I fabricated this oil breather relocation device. It's just a piece of 1/2" copper tube with a elbow soldered on both ends. The breather outlet is 1/2" OD and the copper elbow is 5/8" id. I used a short (1") piece of 5/8" OD x 1/2" ID clear vinyl tubing to fit over the breather outlet then the copper elbow slips over the vinyl tube to make a nice fitting connection to the breather outlet. Unfortunately, the fit is not tight enough and even before trying to start the motor I was getting oil drips at the connection. So, I had to come up with another plan

Seal Installed

The new seal is installed and, as you can see, the spacer is now slightly protruding from the seal so that when the sprocket or pulley is installed on the splined shaft it will bottom out on the bearing spacer, not on the outside face of the seal.

Modify the Seal

So, I had to modify the seal by taking some material off the end that bottoms out on the bearing race. I have a small Unimat lathe and by taking very light cuts I was able to reduce the height of the seal to match the original.

I cut a piece of card stock to fit the inside of the metal seal housing to prevent shavings from getting into the seal.

Height Comparison

Unfortunately, the new seal is about two full threads longer than the original. The seal bottoms out against the outer race of the outboard crankshaft bearing so just screwing it in deeper is not an option. There is a spacer that goes over the crankshaft and the outside diameter of this spacer is actually the sealing surface. The outer end of this spacer ends up being below the outer face of the seal. So, leaving the seal as-is is not an option either.

Belt Drive Kit

I ordered the belt drive kit that is manufactured by BDL. It comes with what you see here plus two belts. This kit has a 39 tooth front pulley and a 62 tooth pulley on the clutch drum. This gives a ratio of .629 (39/62) which compares with ratio of .622 that I currently have with my 23 tooth front sprocket and 37 tooth sprocket on the clutch drum. I believe that BDL offers an optional 41 tooth front pulley which would give me a little lower highway RPM.

New Engine Seal

There are three places that are the primary culprits for oil leaks. One is the transmission main shaft seal which I have addressed on a different progress report. Another is the primary chain oiler, and the third is the engine sprocket shaft seal. The '55 and later Pans have a "seal" that is threaded into the left engine case. It's not really a seal as you can see by the picture on the right. It is more of an oil slinger. As the crank spins the oil is kind of forced back into the crankcase by the thread-type groove in the slinger.

The item shown on the left is the new seal. It has a real double-lip seal in it.