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PROGRESS REPORTS III
Electronics
Have you ever approached a turn and when you went to turn on your turn signal you found that it was already on and it had been flashing for the last 5 miles since you made your last turn? Most of the time I remember. I have kind of a system: when I'm shifting up through the gears and hit third gear that's supposed to be my reminder to check the turn signal. But sometimes I get distracted by things like traffic and I forget to check.
The simple solution, I suppose, would be to put an obnoxiously loud buzzer in the turn signal circuit or a light on the dash that would flash as long as the signal was blinking, but why do the simple thing when you can make it incredibly complex and difficult?
I decided to use a PIC micro-controller to actuate and control the turn signals, hi-beam, brake light and horn on the bike. My design criteria were:
| two momentary switches on each side of the handlebars: left & right turn signal, hi-beam & horn | ||
| turn signal function: press and release one of the switches and the turn signal starts flashing a pre-determined number of times and then stops flashing. Press and release the same switch again before it has finished flashing the predetermined number of times and it cancels the operation. Press and release the opposite switch before the first has finished flashing the predetermined number of times and it cancels the first operation and starts flashing the other turn signal the predetermined number of times. | ||
| hi-beam function: press and release the switch and the hi-beam goes on. Press and release the switch again and it goes off. | ||
| horn function: press and hold the switch and the horn is on until the switch is released. | ||
| brake light function: using the existing foot brake switch intercept the signal to the brake lights and flash the brake lights 5-6 times in rapid succession then hold the brake lights on until the signal from the foot brake switch is lost. | ||
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Outer Race
Rotor Adapter
The custom spacer that adapts the late-model rotor to the vintage star hub. Since I am using the original lug bolts to attach the adapter to the hub I needed to get a special 3/8 - 20 tap.
Mock-up
This is a mock-up just to make sure that the spacers are the correct length and everything fits. There is a spacer behind the rotor that will be replaced with a custom adapter and there is a spacer on the axle sleeve that takes the place of the original brake shoe backing plate. The caliper is just resting on the rotor in order to make sure that there is sufficient clearance between the caliper and the spokes.
Mock-up
This shows how the smaller spacer is used to take the place of the brake shoe backing plate that would normally be attached to the fork by the axle sleeve.
Mock-up
This mockup just shows the relationship of the bracket, caliper and link.
Mock-up
It's winter here in Michigan so I dismantled the entire front end and reassembled it in my basement so I can work on it where it is nice and warm.
Spacers
In order to mock-up the disk brake I made some temporary spacers out of PVC. I wanted to use the original axle parts if possible so the smaller spacer goes on the axle sleeve and replaces the original brake shoe backing plate. The larger one is used simulating the custom adapter that I need to have machined. For now, though, I just wanted to make sure that the spacers were the right length before I actually start cutting metal.
Caliper
Yet another eBay part. This is a stock late-model (2000 and up) Harley RIGHT side caliper. The calipers on the 2000 and up FL models mounts on the aft side of the fork. I will be mounting it on the forward side of the left fork so I need a right side caliper.
Manifold Installed
Manifold installed on the bike. You can see in this picture that the manifold is tilted slightly toward the rear of the bike by design so that it will provides a little more clearance on the forward side for the linkage.
Control Module
The ELCM (Electronic Light Control Module) in its housing without the top cover installed. The PIC micro-controller is the little rectangular chip in the center. Since the chip requires 5 volts DC the ELCM has its own 5 volt voltage regulator built into it. The switches connect to the screw terminals on one side and the lights and horn connect to the screw terminals on the other side. The entire box mounts inside the front fork tins.
This one should probably be considered a prototype. Everything is just wired point-to-point. If this one works well I may design a more compact module with a printed ciruit board. But that would be a project for NEXT winter.
Daughter Board
This is a daughter board that has the output transistor circuits mounted on it.
This page last updated on June 14, 2007
©2003-2007 David Remelts