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Next Page (added 6-28-04)

Clutch Hub

I had to replace the clutch hub because after I removed the old one I found that the base of the hub was bent where someone had evidently tried to remove it from the transmission mainshaft using the incorrect type of puller (it wasn't me - I went to great lengths to ensure that I pulled it correctly - see the dissassembly report).

You can also see the new clutch pushrod seal that is installed in the hub retaining nut. There was no seal previously, not even the old cork seal, so I'm sure that was also a contributing factor to the transmission oil leaks

Clutch Shell

I put the clutch shell on using the long bearing kit. The theory is that the short staggered roller bearing in the stock bearing cage allow the clutch shell to oscillate back and forth when the clutch is disengaged which causes surging when you are sitting at a traffic light. The long bearings are supposed to minimize this. We'll see.

Tamer

Along with the long bearing kit, the tamer is also designed to reduce the tendancy of the clutch shell to move in and out when the clutch is disengaged. Note that I had to put the retaining rings in the C position in order to get the free play down to less than .035.

Clutch Assy

Clutch fully assembled.

Primary Drive Assy

The engine and transmission are now reconnected. I used my four foot long pipe to tighten the nut on the compensating sprocket. I did not have a torque wrench that went to 250 ft. lb. so I took my regular torque wrench and tried to get a feel for what it felt like to exert about 80 lb. of force since the four foot pipe is about 3 times longer than my torque wrench. Then I tried to put about that much force on the pipe. I used the same jam tool as I used when disassembling it.

Install Bearing Cups

New bearing cups are inserted into the neck.

Triple Trees

When I first put the trees on I just reassembled them the same way that they were when I took them apart (as shown here). Somehow, though, it just didn't seem right. So, I spent some time studying the parts manual and found that the adjusting nut that you see on top of the triple tree assy is really supposed to be underneath the upper tree bracket then a cap nut goes on top of the upper tree bracket. Once I changed that everything seemed to just feel better. But the way you see it here is the way it was when I bought it and the way that I rode it last summer. (That may explain the clunks I would hear/feel when I would hit a bump.)

Fork Assy

Fork assy with new standard length tubes installed.